More Great Whites…

Monday, November 16th, 2009

The burgeoning interest in white blends as a serious category in South African wine was reflected by the fact that nearly 60 of the country’s brightest winemaking talents turned out on a distinctly wet summer’s day to attend the Great White tasting and seminar in Stellenbosch.

Eben Sadie kicked off proceedings by briefly sketching the origins of the informal Great White movement. Essentially, a group of like-minded winemakers began beating their drum four or five years ago. “Keep politics out of it,” was their mantra and they’ve succeeded so far. This is a genuine grassroots movement. While Sadie was prepared to be the public face at this particular forum, there are several other individuals driving this style.
“I was surprised to see how many white blends were represented here today,” Sadie admitted when faced with the 30 bottle table.

So why do white blends offer great scope? Terroir expression primarily. SA has hugely varied soils and climates. The most exciting wine discoveries are pockets of old vines being found in places like the Swartland. Grenache Blanc, old Chenin Blanc, neglected Verdelho – all suited to hotter climes. Then factor in the new plantings of Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne. Add Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon into the mix and the sky’s the limit.
Perhaps the best perspective came from Greg Sherwood, the buyer for Handford Wines and one of two guest speakers. Sherwood is only the fourth South African to achieve the Master of Wine qualification. (I uncharitably feel compelled to point out that France’s first MW qualified this week – a good friend of mine, Isabelle Legeron… and she’s been resident in London for the past decade or more! Not only that, but she’s well known to Travel Channel viewers for her Journey into Wine series. And the first series – at her insistence – was on South Africa!)

The points made by Sherwood were that white blends offer variety, points of difference, individual expression and ultimately a great story. “Consumers are lazy but they’re not stupid. If the wines you’re making are not interesting or no good, we can’t sell them.
“South Africa’s very fragmentation and differentiation is now emerging as its greatest strength,” Sherwood said, contrasting the country’s rising fortunes with those of Australia. According to the latest Nielsen figures (up to June 2009), SA’s off-trade sales grew by 36.4% in value and 33% in volume. The 3 to 4 pound sector is up 47%, 4 to 5 pounds up 56%, 5 to 6 pounds up 32.5%, 6 to 7 pounds up 30% and the 10 pound plus sector has risen by 134%.
“That’s phenomenal!” Sherwood said but cautioned that it’s also unsustainable…

White blends speak of distinct places, of different elements, nuances, flavours and fragrances, of winemaker’s thoughts and offer interest and variety in a sea of sameness.